Tokwa and mushrooms stand in for meat in this lumpia, with freezing and dry-cooking doing the real work on texture.
I set out to make a gulay version of lumpiang shanghai, and it turns out that makes it vegan too. No meat substitutes, no fuss — just vegetables, tokwa, and mushrooms doing the work.
The tokwa is the key step here. Freezing and thawing it first breaks down the texture, so when you crumble and dry-cook it, it comes out with a slightly chewy, ground-meat-like bite instead of turning mushy. It's the difference between a filling that has structure and one that just falls apart in the wrapper.
Shiitake and tenga ng daga do double duty too. Beyond flavor, they're giving you the chew that pork usually provides — that little resistance when you bite into a piece. Dry-cooking them until they've released their moisture matters just as much as the tokwa step; this is what keeps the lumpia crisp instead of soggy.
Cornstarch pulls everything together. Let the filling cool slightly before adding it — cornstarch added to hot filling can clump or start to gel unevenly instead of distributing cleanly. Mix until it's evenly distributed, then check the texture: a spoonful should hold its shape after you squeeze it in your palm. That grip is what keeps the lumpia from falling apart when you fry it. Cool the filling completely before wrapping, too — warm filling will steam inside the wrapper, making it soggy and prone to tearing when you fry.
This isn't trying to taste exactly like the original — it's its own thing, built around texture and technique rather than a meat replica. What you get instead is a lumpia that's crisp on the outside, savory and slightly chewy inside, and holds its own dipped in sweet chili sauce.
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Prep tokwa: Place tokwa between paper towels or a clean kitchen towel and squeeze out as much moisture as possible. Crumble finely. Heat a dry large pan over medium heat. Add crumbled tokwa and cook for 8-10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until dry and lightly golden brown. Remove and set aside.
Rehydrate tenga ng daga: Place dried tenga ng daga in a bowl and cover with hot water. Let soak for 15-20 minutes until softened and pliable. Drain, squeeze out excess water, and chop finely.
Cook mushroom: In the same pan over medium heat, add 1 tsp oil. Add shiitake mushrooms and rehydrated tenga ng daga for about 5-7 minutes or until mushrooms have released their moisture and are fairly dry.
Cook aromatics and veg: Add onion and garlic, sauté for 2-3 minutes or until soft and fragrant. Add carrots and cook for an additional 2-3 minutes.
Combine: Return tokwa to the pan. Add soy sauce, sugar, and pepper. Mix until evenly combined and cook for 2-3 minutes. Taste the filling and adjust to desired taste.
Add binder and herbs: Turn off heat and cool the filling slightly. Add cornstarch, spring onions, and wansoy, mix until combined. You should be able to grab a spoonful, squeeze and the filling will hold its shape. Set aside and cool completely.
Wrap: Lay 1 lumpia wrapper on a flat surface. Place 1 heaping tablespoon of filling at the bottom edge of the wrapper. Shape the filling into a thin log. Fold the bottom over the filling, fold in the sides, then roll tightly toward the top. Seal the edge with a bit of water. Repeat with remaining wrappers and filling.
Fry: Fill a deep pot or kawali halfway with oil and heat to 180°C (350°F) over medium-high heat. Add the lumpia in batches and fry until golden brown and crispy, about 4–5 minutes. Transfer to a wire rack.
