Is Locavore in Kapitolyo as Good as Everyone Says It Is?March 5, 2015
- Pamela CortezWords
Everyone’s been talking about Locavore. Since it opened last December, people have been flocking to Brixton, Pasig, to get a hold of their modern, hip take on Filipino food that will remind one of what JP Anglo does at Sarsa.
The menu reads pretty easy, with almost everything sounding appetizing–there’s fried chicken, tapa, longganisa, crispy pata, and the prices are affordable, too. Around this area, there are a lot of hungry office workers willing to share a meal or two during their lunch break. The place is smart, too, separated in two sections, designed with no-frills, but still comfortable enough to hang out in. But we’re here for the food, and everyone’s praise for the restaurant might just be well-deserved.
The infamous Sizzling Sinigang is every bit as good as the hype. It’s an ingenious idea, the kind so simple that you wonder why no one has done it before. Tender, falling-off-the-bone pieces of unctuous meat are doused in a thick gravy that is just as sour as sinigang should be. I appreciate the careful construction of it as well, with the vegetables separated from the lot so that none of the crisp beans, roasted onions, and tomatoes lose their integrity. It’s pretty stellar stuff. Oyster sisig is the kind of dish that anyone on a drunken night out will appreciate; juicy local oysters covered in a tempura-like batter will surely soak up your alcohol intake back to sobriety. My only issue is that there is too much of this aioli/mayonnaise combo that if you get a bite doused in some, the flavor of the fried oysters gets a tad lost. But that is merely a little fault.
Liempo buns were an inventive take on the bao craze that everyone is into these days, with sweet pork incased in soft fluffy bread, topped with pickles and coleslaw. It’s decent stuff especially for what you’re paying, with just a few flaws–too much mayo, bread a little too thin–that you’re willing to overlook because essentially, it still delivers a good bite.
Ensaladang pakwan was the only dish we had that presented any sort of real let-down; individually each component was too much. Tapa was too salty, dressing was too sour–there was too much of it, that even the watermelon’s sweetness couldn’t really balance things out. In its essence however, there were good intentions, and careful thought in putting together the dishes on their menu.
Locavore is one of those places that will have a steady following for a long time. It is approachable food, that is sometimes novel, but never delves into territory that is too outrageous for its clientele. The service may be a little bit stilted and inattentive, and their food a few mistakes from perfect, but that stuff doesn’t detract from what you come here for. It’s perfect for a meal with your barkada, or drinks and grub after work, and a welcome new spot to the ever-growing Kapitolyo food scene. We give it a 7/10.