Burgers and Brewskies, Burgos Circle Review: Creative LicenseFebruary 11, 2019
- Pamela CortezWords
A few years back, articles about this restaurant in the States called Heart Attack Grill were making their rounds on the Internet. I don’t recall what year it was exactly, but I do remember that the major food trends then were gluttony and excess. People were making Krispy Kreme burgers, deep-frying butter at state fairs, and Adam Richman was eating platters of burritos on a dare. This place was the embodiment of all of that. They proudly served Quadruple Bypass burgers that came in at 8000 calories, with 20 slices of bacon and a side of French fries that were deep-fried in pure lard. It was the very definition of ridiculous. People apparently trooped to the restaurant in droves, blinded by the kitsch of it all.
Recently, my New Restaurant Notifying Device™ (aka Instagram) alerted me about a new place at the Fort called Burgers and Brewskies. People were posting photos from this restaurant that made it look like it served dishes straight from the Heart Attack Grill. One burger, called Call the Nurse, seemed to be a crowd favorite. This ominous-sounding creation had a whole slab of mac and cheese resting on an average burger patty, topped off with bacon, and even more cheese sauce. I was appalled, I was disgusted.
I wanted to give it a horrible review, but I was wrong.
I was never a fan of excess as a food trend, and everything I saw about Burgers and Brewskies looked completely irrational. I decided I needed to pay the place a visit. I wanted to eat there, give it a horrible review, and talk about health and responsible eating, and my disdain for the crappy food that Paula Deen has become the spokesperson of. Too bad, I was wrong.
Call the Nurse was over the top in the right kind of way.
I loved that thing. Instead of demonstrating gross excess, Call the Nurse was over the top in the right kind of way. It had the right amount of heat, making sure your palate never got bored or tired of what would seem to be a too rich combination. It was actually considerably restrained for what it is, a puck of meat that came with pasta and cheese on top. In fact, all the burgers here at Burgers and Brewskies have great balance, are sinfully delicious, and are a damn joy to eat.
The people behind Burgers and Brewskies have got their burger equations right. If you’re an American cheese, lettuce, tomato and pickle purist, look away. These guys have gone crazy with their concoctions, but without once sacrificing taste. Their patties are a clean 1/3 pounds, which means that they can get away with adding slabs of mac and cheese, fried onion strings, balsamic glazed shiitakes, and whatever ostentatious thing they want on their burgers. The beef was always consistent, perfectly cooked, and never dry, which is all I ever ask for between two slices of bread.
The Heisenberg was a stand out. Though it may not remind you at all of Mr. White, the pairing of the blue cheese sauce with the jicama celery slaw is all kinds of genius. The pungent punch of blue cheese is complemented by the slight sweetness of the jicama, which gives you a great crunch in every bite.
The prices are very reasonable.
It’s the same story with almost every burger they serve, everything you want texturally, it’s there. They all tasted savory, slightly sweet, and in some cases, of umami. The best thing about the restaurant is, for such good burgers, the prices seem incredibly reasonable, never going above Php 280 for great quality meat, fresh ingredients, and a full meal.
The sides are also interesting, and aren’t shy companions to the burgers. They can stand on their own. Don’t leave this place without getting the Cuban Missile, a cob of corn covered in mayo and cheese, with tons of spices.
The chicken wings were the one thing I didn’t like.
There is one gripe I do have, their wings will definitely not be missed. I guess the cheaper prices dictate that they use smaller pieces, but it does not excuse how awful these truly were. They were small, anemic pieces of overcooked, dry chicken meat. The sauces, while sticky and rich, were all ordinary and unspectacular compared to the stunning burgers. In fact, their flavors were all so similar that it was hard to discern whether I was eating sweet chili or sesame sriracha.
A completely satisfying little burger joint.
Burgers and Brewskies is unapologetic. You come here to grab a cold pint, pair it with an exciting burger, and go home elbows deep in meat grease and happiness. You can order the ludicrous Call the Nurse without risking a heart attack, and instead leave feeling just a little bit guilty. If the wings were off the menu, this would be a really awesome, completely satisfying little burger joint.