Purveyors

Artisan Emporium: Baking Your Favorite Trends and Mixing it with Elevated Classics

October 26, 2016

Making things that are trending is both difficult and easy. On one end, it’s easy to just jump and watch as everyone clamors to get the latest in thing, but it’s also difficult because everyone else doing the same thing. It’s a risk—one that has a certain time limit if you don’t do it properly. Artisan Emporium does try to grasp these trends, the question is do they do it justice. Serving a slew of classics and trending items, the bakery attempts put some credence to their artisanal name.

Beginning with much cherished banana bread, I have to put it out there that I’m always dubious when it comes to eating this. Primarily, because so many things can go horribly wrong with the loaf. Getting the right consistency is difficult. Getting it to the perfect moisture without it losing its bite or structure sometimes proves the downfall of many. So I was pleasantly surprised at how expertly made the bread was. Soft and tender, approaching the texture of cake, the loaf is dense but also extremely moist, spiked with rum at the end. A welcome addition to the loaves that I have good relations with.

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Admittedly, the ube trend has not really grown on me yet. I still  reserve a special place in my heart for ube ice cream and ube jam from Good Shepherd, anything else seems odd to me. But I still do appreciate the flavor it brings, and I cannot discredit its claim to foodie fame. So there’s was a bit of apprehension tasting their Ube loaf, but the bread was tender, with a considerable amount of bite. I cannot say that the flavor of the purple yam was front and center, but there was a subtle richness going through it.

And while I can say that the ube trend may not have fully grown on me, polvoron on the other hand, well, that’s a different case. Polvoron and I have a tender relationship. The powdery candy in all its simplicity is nostalgic and simple, but also easy to mess up, especially if you’re title is artisan. Because polvoron is all about rations: adding too much flour allows it to lose its structure, too much butter and you’re left with butter flavored flour. So naturally, making everything perfect is imperative. That and elevating it. And Artisan Emporium does these two quite expertly. Their Parmesan Polvoron just adds a bit of muskiness and funk to the otherwise sweet candy, adding a simple edge to keep you interested. Their dried cranberry polvoron just adds a tartness that contrasts the heavy, heady structure of the candy.

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Now talking about trends, custard mamon may seem a brilliant idea to many, but we have to stop ourselves sometimes. The mamon was alright, though it was not anything amazing. But their custard was incredibly thick and heavy handed, the custard adding too much sweetness and weight to the otherwise airy bread. There’s wasn’t much balance in it, and though the concept of two contrasting textures may seem a novel idea, sometimes the differences are too glaring to expect anything good.

And of course, one cannot fill the trend list without dabbling with salted egg chips. I have eaten my fair share, and more of these, and I can say that these are up there. The chips have the intense, almost nauseating flavor of the deep fried salted egg, and the subtle sweetness rounding the end.

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Now, this is only a small portion of their expansive menu. But from what we’ve seen, Artisan Emporium does justice to its name. They do good work with what they have, executing pastries and bread with a certain expertise. Making sure that they stay true to the affluence that comes with its name.


Artisan Emporium

A bakery and cafe in Kapitolyo that executes classics and trends effortlessly

Address: Lower Ground, Estancia Mall, Capital Commons Meralco Ave
Contact: 0917 899 7000
Spend: 300–500 PHP for a selection of baked goods
Follow: Facebook / Instagram / Website

Andre Orandain SEE AUTHOR Andre Orandain

Andre’s love for food began with his affair with a televised Nigella Lawson. He then met the literary voice Doreen Fernandez after reading Tikim, he was a changed man ever since. He aspires to eat around the Philippines, slowly unraveling the rich culture that archipelago can offer.

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